Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Technical Discussion Forum for all Paul C. Buff, Inc. Products

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Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:38 am

Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:28 am
Posts: 2

I just bough a VagabondII , 1 CRT and 2 CSRB to operate 1 AB1600 and 2 Nikon Speedlight

I'm getting that black band when shooting above 1/320. (i know why, this is not my question).

I'm using a Nikon D300s body and i know its capable of 1/8000 (i think)...or atleast when using on camera external flash. (not the popup)

So my question is:
How exactly do i get past the 1/320 sync without getting the black band with the Paul C buff gears that i just bought ? (im trying to get atleast 1/2000)

did i buy the wrong trigger/remote version or something ?




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Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:53 am

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
Posts: 5266

Please read the first two posts in this forum. They specifically address this.

TS




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Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:07 am

Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:28 am
Posts: 2

I understand it was addressed in the first two posts but i need a solution (with Aliens products)... Unless im reading wrong, i don't see any solution in the two posts.




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Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:40 am

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
Posts: 5266

There is not a true solution with our products, or with any studio lights. There are quasi solutions with some of the newer remote systems, however, there are significant drawbacks, as described in the earlier posts. However, typically, faster shutter speeds are used to freeze action. Action stopping is achieved by the flash duration of the flashes themselves. t.1 time on a B1600 is 1/600, effectively acting as 1/600 of a second shutter speed. The other reason to use higher shutter speeds is to use a wider aperture in brighter ambient light. Since the sync speed is a function of the camera, not the studio lights or remotes, your only true solution is to ND the lens, and pump more power from the lights.

TS




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