Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

1 - Clearly the Einstein has the widest range of any monoblock out there. But when shooting at wide apertures with the light in close, we still have too much power. I have several thoughts in mind of how to knock some power down, but I would like to hear some suggestions from the group.

My thoughts are:
- Aluminum foil mounted on the inner diffusion panel facing back towards the light. That should lower the light and add more scatter.
- Attach addition diffusion material to the inner diffusion panel. Maybe some Tough Frost or something like that?

2 - I wonder if Paul has ever considered making a neutral density dome that would knock 3 stops down off the light. Same type of thing as the color reducing dome, but a light reducing dome.

Thanks in advance.

Michael Tapes

Have you tried using just the modeling lamps? @ 1/100 and the model lamp at full, you should get close to the same as at minimum power flash. Alternatively, you could try clipping an ND gel in the same manner as the tough frost. The idea of CTO domes has been discussed before. The numbers sold would not be high enough to keep the cost down. I would venture to guess the ND domes would be the same.

Depending on WHAT you plan to shoot & HOW you envision the final output you'd like, the 4 immediate options that come to mind would be:

- Position the light further at the compromise of getting a slightly harder source. Free & easy.

- Keep adding layers of diffusion material between subject and light. Each diffusion fabric/material would effectively lower the output by roughly 1-2 (sometimes more) stops while maintaining the overall 'apparent size' of the light source (for example, if you need light to stay 'soft').

- ND Gel on flash (your choice of stops, or stack them) if you wish to knock down flash power only. This approach is also cheap & flexible, if it applies to your shot.

- ND Filter on your lens (your choice of stops) if you wish to reduce amount of light entering lens to allow for use a larger aperture. This approach will affect the ambient light as well, so if this fits your style, plan accordingly.

hope this helps, or at least give you ideas.

P.S. - TS's suggestion above on modeling lights alone (or any other constant source) is also a great way to accomplish this.

If you need less than 2.5WS, you ought to be using continuous. Most monolights only go dow to around 20WS minimum . . . that's 3 f stops more than Einstein. You must be shooting f2 at ISO 800+ 8-)

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

@LR: "- ND Gel on flash (your choice of stops, or stack them) if you wish to knock down flash power only. This approach is also cheap & flexible, if it applies to your shot."

Where would you suggest I mount ND gels in an Einstein SB situation. On the internal diffuser?

Thanks again.

Michael

That is the most popular place to attach one.

I just use an ND filter on my lens. In certain circumstances the modeling lights would be sufficient, but could be a problem if you've got different color temp lights in ambient and any of that is leaking in.
It's actually beneficial for me as it allows me to run my WLs at a higher power and in their optimum operating range. Less WB shift and faster flash duration (not really an issue for you with your Einsteins).

I've found that to be the best option for me since I'm using gear I already own and I don't have to lug anything else around; and it only takes a second to screw the filter on.

You might also try using a polarizer. It'll kill about 1 to 2 stops of light depending on the filter.

Keep in mind, with a ND filter or polarizer, you are lowering ALL light. May not be ideal if you want ambient to contribute to the exposure.

ND on the lens is not a good solution for me simply because I would need them for many lenses. I think ND gel on internal diffuser makes the most sense, since it accomplishes exactly what I want and that is to have less light from 1 specific source.

I have not tried this yet, but any thoughts on aluminum foil on the internal diffuser facing back at the light. Not the entire diffuser, but just the center area. Would kind of act like the light block in a beauty disk, where all of the light would be bounced around a little more. Might change the quality of light, and would certainly affect the uniformity of the light across the surface of the SB. I might do some experimenting just for kicks :>)

I suppose you could buy an extra dome, stack it over the existing dome with a couple metal clips. Or you could just buy some ripstop nylon and clip it over the front of the soft box.

I am curious, though, what your settings are, and how close you are getting with the light? As PCB noted, ISO 800 and f2 or wider?

I would definitely go the ND filter route, either that or pick up some speedlites and tape a piece of white cloth on the fresnel lens.