Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Is it possible to swap the 250/150w bulbs w/ a LED?

Getting right color temperature in LEDs (on paper) seems easy. Definitely lower power draw and heat generated, if sufficient light output...

I'm a total geek and have swapped in LED's to a ton of things not originally intended for them. Dashboards and blinkers in old 4x4 Landcruisers especially. Some issues i've seen around the adjustment range being a bit different, and without a resistor the blinker would blink at a faster rate than when a regular bulb.

PCB Tech - what is base type of the bulb, and is there a specific concern doing this? If i can get a decent output LED that fits?

Now some reasoning on my part - i just picked up a used Vagabond (not II, not VML, but v1). Have the SLA replacement battery on it's way now. Knowing that a 250 or 150w model lamp consumes a decent amount of power (but i appreciate the output in lower light trying to focus)... a LED makes sense to me (i'm in IT, i'm a geek).

Appreciate the feedback and suggestions. If someone else has done this - what you used? and from PCB Tech - if there's a specific concern doing this (like voiding the warranty)? I would hope not, but want to check of course. My e640 is only about a year old w/ very little use (just when need more than speedlights can manage). But hope for more use soon.

Thanks!

rob

as an example, on superbrightleds.com (a favorite of mine as they give specs and dimensions):

It looks like an 1142 base:


and they have a 125 lumen 5500k bulb:


it draws 175ma! 50-100,000 hour life i'd guess (typical for LED). about $18-20.

Absolutely not trying to take any $ out of PCB bulb sales... but get the most flashes from a battery, and not have a lamp burn out very often (or ever for as infrequent as i use). From use or abuse (though i try not to abuse my 640, and haven't knocked it over yet).

I can pull out the calipers when i get home and measure if the dimensions match... 1142 is pretty common, so may be something else. Should be easy'ish to find if it's that simple.

So there's my thought process. Again, unsure if the variable nature of the model lamp would be an issue. on my old FJ60, the dash lights are on a dimmer (somewhat similar in concept... to my thinking). the difference is that the dash bulbs adjust fully from dim to bright, but use less of the adjustment range of the dimmer. So turning the dimmer works, but from bright to dim is about 70%'ish of the adjustment range. The last 30% of the adjustment is where they already are all the way dim. so a bit more finicky and fine tuned adjustment. If that makes sense?

I hope someone can chime in that they've done this and used what? Or PCB Tech can caution me if there's a design limitation (voltage? most LEDs are 3-30v compatible - depending on the actual LED diode itself), or something else to steer me clear.

Yes i know there's a 25w lamp available. But output from that seems like it would be pretty hard to use...

Thanks everyone!

rob

The main thing is the output voltage on the E640 model lamp socket is 120VAC, while the bulb linked to is a 12VDC. We have not found a bulb that is 120VAC that would fit the Einstein to review.

ugh... totally obvious! AD vs DC.

well that kills that idea. I'll dig a little bit and see if there are any other ones that may work.

Thanks TS for squaring me away so quickly.

rob

Would this item work? It is 120VAC with an BA15D base?

Manufacturer: Martek LED
SKU: STACKLITE/LED/DCB/120V
Lamp Shape: T8
Base Style: Double Contact Bayonet (BA15D)
Length MOL: 2.25"
Diameter MOD: 1.00"
Electrical Data: 120Vac, 1 Watt


http://www.martekled.com/-strse-163/LED ... Detail.bok

It looks like it might work. But 1W power consumption? That would only be equivalent to about a 5 to 10W incandescent . . . say a 7W night light.

Plus, we don't know if bulbs like this can withstand the very high temperatures caused by the flashtube.

I'd be interested in giving this LED a try, and I might order a couple of them.

When I shoot on location with the Einsteins and Vagabond Mini Lithium, I always remove the modeling lamps, because I don't want to worry about them killing my battery packs. I'm triggering with the PocketWizard PowerMC2 and Flex system.

A few times I was shooting in very dark conditions outside, and even a small amount of light would have been handy to help focus and compose.

Please let us know if these work!! I want to go with a LED solution for the very same reason!

I purchased the LED lights, and they're virtually worthless.

Even indoors on a silver PLM, they put out just enough light to let you know that the strobe is powered on.

Certainly not of any value as a 'modeling lamp'.

Thanks for giving it a shot and reporting back with the results.

Bummer it didn't work! :(