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| Einsteins HSS and Hyper sync What is Needed http://paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4968 |
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| Author: | sschlager [ Wed Sep 21, 2016 2:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Einsteins HSS and Hyper sync What is Needed |
Okay, I am so lost. I have Einsteins and a Canon 5d Mark II. What do I need to get these units to do either HSS or Hyper sync? I am photographing rodeos and need to be able to shoot them at night. I mainly use strobes in a studio and to be honest don't know much about them. I know what I need to know to get the look I want from them in the studio but outside the studio is a different ball game. Any advice is appreciated. |
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| Author: | Technical Support [ Wed Sep 21, 2016 9:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Einsteins HSS and Hyper sync What is Needed |
For what you are doing, HSS or HyperSync is a waste of time, money, frustration, and energy. The idea behind HyperSync/HSS is to allow faster shutters speeds to either then allow wider apertures in bright light, or to stop action from a high ambient light source. In either case, the use case scenario is high ambient light. The work by using a long flash duration, triggered early, and actuate the shutter during the burn time. Since none of the sensor will recieve all of the light produced, more light is needed to compensate. This results in longer recycle times. In a low ambient light situation, the ambient light has little to no effect on the image, including not lighting a moving subject long enough and bright enough to register in an image. Therefore, all of the light and thus all of the action stopping comes from the flash duration, as that duration time is the only time light, that is bright enough to record, is being recorded. In a completely black environment, a flash exposure would look the same at 1/200s, 1/2s, 2s, or 20s. Furthermore, since HSS/HyperSync relies on a long flash duration, and Einstein's major strength is fast flash durations, then HyperSync is not really a viable option at anything below full power. By using Einstein at night or inside, your best option is to use your regular x-sync speed and use the lights at a somewhat reduced power for faster flash durations. It is not terribly difficult to reach 1/2000s flash duration, which will freeze action about the same as a 1/2000s shutter speed. If you need rapid successive flash you can dial the power down for faster recycling and faster flash durations. Reducing flash power does make gains, but it also reduces the amount of available light. However, this reduction would be similar to the losses you would get using HyperSync. Either way, you can use more efficent reflectors, and/or add more lights. |
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