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Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:09 am

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:02 am
Posts: 5

We are trying to sync my Nikon D5500 with (4) AlienBees B800 Flash Unit system using a hotshoe CyberSync Transmitter CST. All B800 flashes are set to the same channel as the CST but I am unsure what I am doing wrong. This setup worked fine for our Sigma DP2 but not for the Nikon D5500.

Please note that we have CyberSync Receiver Model CSR+ connected to the B800 lights. For reference, I provided a pic of the equipment

Image




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Wed Jun 14, 2017 12:15 pm

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
Posts: 5266

Just an FYI, I responded to your email, but the email just bounced back. Not sure why.

However, to fully trouble shoot this issue, please follow these steps in order, and note the first place the light fails to fire.

• First, ensure the receiver has the power cord from the wall going to the bottom of the receiver. Also, ensure the small sync cord is running from the side of the receiver to the hole marked “sync” on the back of the light.
• Press the test button on the back of the light to ensure the light fires on its own
• Press the test button on the receiver
• Press the test button on the transmitter
o If the flash does not fire, see if the LED on the receiver blinks red when the test button is pressed on the transmitter
o If the LED on the receiver does not blink red, look for the red LED on the transmitter when you press the CST2 test button.
• With the CST2 installed on your camera and with your camera not in “live view”, press the shutter button. Look for the LED on the transmitter as well as the flash from the light.

Please let me know the first place the flash fails to fire, and the other bit that may be pertinent as described above. Once we figure this out, then we can proceed to correcting the issue.

Also, if possible, please show a photo of the info screen on the back of the camera. Preferably the one with the most information.




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Thu Jun 15, 2017 10:23 am

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:02 am
Posts: 5

See my answers in bold

Quote:

Just an FYI, I responded to your email, but the email just bounced back. Not sure why.

However, to fully trouble shoot this issue, please follow these steps in order, and note the first place the light fails to fire.

• First, ensure the receiver has the power cord from the wall going to the bottom of the receiver. Also, ensure the small sync cord is running from the side of the receiver to the hole marked “sync” on the back of the light.
flash fires successfully
• Press the test button on the back of the light to ensure the light fires on its own
flash fires successfully
• Press the test button on the receiver
flash fires successfully
• Press the test button on the transmitter
flash fires successfully
o If the flash does not fire, see if the LED on the receiver blinks red when the test button is pressed on the transmitter
o If the LED on the receiver does not blink red, look for the red LED on the transmitter when you press the CST2 test button.
I use a CST transmitter not CST2. CST blinks red.
• With the CST2 installed on your camera and with your camera not in “live view”, press the shutter button. Look for the LED on the transmitter as well as the flash from the light.
No LED light response on the CST transmitter from pressing the D5500 shutter when NOT in "live view" or normal view

Please let me know the first place the flash fails to fire, and the other bit that may be pertinent as described above. Once we figure this out, then we can proceed to correcting the issue.

Under the same lighting conditions and camera settings, I tested the CST transmitter again on a Sigma DP2, works fine. However, I need this to work on the D5500. To test to make sure the hotshoe on the D5500 works, I have mounted a Targus TG-DL20N hotshoe flash and that fires. This hotshoe flash has more points of contact with the D5500 hotshoe than the CST transmitter has. Noticing this, I wedged a thin cut-to-size aluminium foil in between the CST transmitter and the D5500 hotshoe. It has a 3-5 sec delay but it works. Obviously this not how it supposed to work and not a proper fix.I kept testing the CST on the D5500 after removing the aluminum foil but it does not work at all. What else can try?


Also, if possible, please show a photo of the info screen on the back of the camera. Preferably the one with the most information. Image






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Thu Jun 15, 2017 3:11 pm

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
Posts: 5266

I see the flash icon is gray rather than white. I am not sure of that significance, but I woudl rotate through the different flash options and see if the behavior acts differently among them.

You can also try pushing the CST down in the hotshoe as you take a photo. If this get the unit to work, then the contact ball has become recessed to the point it will not contact the hotshoe. If this is the case, you can call us, and we can walk you through some options to correct this.




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Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:05 pm

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:02 am
Posts: 5

The flash icon only turns white if I use the built-in flash.

I tried cycling through the different flash modes - Fill Flash, Red-eye reduction & rear curtain sync, with no luck. Those options seem to only control the built-in flash. I even tested using the manual flash and TTL flash settings.

I also tried pressing down on the CST but the B800 flashes still does not trigger.

I tested the CST on older DSLR models like the Nikon D70 (2008), Sigma DP2 (2009) and Nikon D3100 (2010). The CST worked on Nikon D70 (2008) and Sigma DP2 (2009) but NOT the D3100.

Could the CST be incompatible with younger camera models like the D5500 (2015) and Nikon D3100? Do you think your 2nd generation model (CST2) will work on my D5500?




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Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:29 pm

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
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The CST is compatible with all cameras with an ISO hotshoe. It is possible to have varying fitment from one hotshoe to another, even within the same brand. Different fitment can lead to a marginal CST to work in one camera and not another. Even trying to push down may not be enough. It is possible a CST2 would work straight out of the box, but it would be a wear issue more so than compatibility.

How far out is the contact sticking from the bottom of the foot of the CST?




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Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:44 am

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:02 am
Posts: 5

Technical Support wrote:
The CST is compatible with all cameras with an ISO hotshoe. It is possible to have varying fitment from one hotshoe to another, even within the same brand. Different fitment can lead to a marginal CST to work in one camera and not another. Even trying to push down may not be enough. It is possible a CST2 would work straight out of the box, but it would be a wear issue more so than compatibility.

How far out is the contact sticking from the bottom of the foot of the CST?


I would say about 0.5mm.

Image




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Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:31 pm

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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
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OK, the contact ball may be recessed a little too far.

There is a trick to getting this pushed out, but first we need to understand the shape of the contact "ball". While call it a "ball", it is more of an inverted bell shape. The closed portion is facing down, while the flared open side faces up into the transmitter.

If you remove the battery drawer, and look into the bottom of the transmitter, you should be able to see a half circle of metal. This is half of the open side. If you can insert something sturdy into the open side and push out, you should be able to return the contact ball to a working position. You will not need or want to push too far, so be careful.

If the unit still does not work on the new camera, but continues to work on the older cameras, we will need another non-dedicated (non-TTL) device to compare with. This could be a hotshoe adapter, another transmitter, or a dumb flash.




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Tue Jun 20, 2017 2:19 pm

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 9:02 am
Posts: 5

Technical Support wrote:
OK, the contact ball may be recessed a little too far.

There is a trick to getting this pushed out, but first we need to understand the shape of the contact "ball". While call it a "ball", it is more of an inverted bell shape. The closed portion is facing down, while the flared open side faces up into the transmitter.

If you remove the battery drawer, and look into the bottom of the transmitter, you should be able to see a half circle of metal. This is half of the open side. If you can insert something sturdy into the open side and push out, you should be able to return the contact ball to a working position. You will not need or want to push too far, so be careful.

If the unit still does not work on the new camera, but continues to work on the older cameras, we will need another non-dedicated (non-TTL) device to compare with. This could be a hotshoe adapter, another transmitter, or a dumb flash.


I works now! I used a 1/16" slotted screwdriver to gently push down the button as you described. Then I had to adjust the shutter speed to under 1/200 sec to avoid flash sync issues otherwise the image would be 2/3 black. (See below for ref image)

Thank you for your help!

REFERENCE IMAGE FOR FLASH SYNC ISSUE. (RESOLVED, NO FURTHER HELP NEEDED AT THIS TIME)
Image




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