Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

1) Is there a way to use cyber commander to remote trigger the camera shutter?
2) is there a way to use it off-camera and meter/set flash, then trigger camera shutter/flash (with additional CST/CSRB+).

The CyberSync system was designed for the purposes of triggering studio flash units. However, since remote triggering is a matter of closing a circuit, CyberSyncs can typically be used for camera triggering, with some limitations.

First, camera shutter relase actuations involve the closing of two circuits, the AF and the shutter itself. CyberSync can only control one of these, which is the shutter. This means the AF circuit must remain in a constant closed state (effectively, this is the same thing as half pressing on the shutter release button). By being in this state, the camera is ready for the shutter release signal, with no additional delay. The by product of this is you will need to be in manual focus or continuous auto focus (single AF is tricky to use at best).

You can use a Cyber Commander to signal a reciever that is wired to a camera's shutter release. Once the system is set up with the receiver specified as UNDEFINED, pressing the test button, the camera fires. However, Canon and Sony cameras can trigger from a CSRB or CSRB+. Nikon and Pentax cameras, for some reason, prefer the CSRB, while the CSRB+ is a little more intermittent for shutter release on those cameras. With the appropriate cable (we have tested with the ones available from Flash Zebra) the set up is relatively simple.

However, to set up lights using the CC, then using the CC to trigger a camera is a little more complex. You would have to make all of your adjustments on the lights on one frequency, then change to a different frequency (several button presses) in order to trigger the camera's reciever. As you hinted at, the camera would also need its own transmitter to send a signal to the lights.

For the trouble, I would have a CST and CSRB/+ dedicated for camera triggering if it is a frequent use.

Thanks for the very detailed reply!

This is the basic setup I had in mind: one CSRB+ on the light, one CSRB+ with shutter release cable for the camera, 1 commander in hand to setup lights/trigger. I would try it out myself, but my shutter release cable is still on its way.

The other way you were hinting seems to be: 1 cst on camera hot shoe, 1 cst in hand, 1 csrb connected to shutter release, 1 commander in hand. I would set up the lights with the commander, then trigger the camera with the cst in hand, which will fire the cst on hot shoe (I could leave the commander on camera and save the cst on hotshoe, but I want to use it as lightmeter/adjust lights). This seems much more complicated though...

It can be done either way. However option 1 would require you to setup the lights, then change frequency to trigger the camera, which involves going into the setup menu. If you are only going to be doing this once, then it probably is no big deal. But if you will need to switch back and forth, then it can be cumbersome. If the lights and the camera are not on different frequencies, then the lights will fire as the mirror and shutter are moving on the camera. By the time the camera is ready to accept a flash, then the lights have exhausted their energy, and are recycling.

im trying to do this with my Sony A900 and the problem im getting is that the shutter release cable is a mini headphone jack, and the commanders only take regular size headphone jacks... and i cant seem to find an adaptor to go from mini to regular... is there any other way?

radio shack should have them. It doesnt matter if the adapter is mono, as a mono connection (in one fashion or another) will be required for proper operation. Or you could lop off the end and relpace it with a mono plug (again from radio shack). Also, FlashZebra carries the corect cord for a reasonable cost.

ahhh i always forget about radio shack!! thanks for that!

I would suggest a mono adapter. What this does is force the camera into the equivilent of half depress on the shutter button (i.e. activate the meter and AF). This needs to be engaged before the shutter will trip. If not engaged, then the shutter will not trip when the button is pressed. The two contacts that turn into one contact would be AF and common, waiting for the shutter contact. This does mean that you will need to disconnect the system from the adapter to make any changes, as the half press action locks out all control. Again, we recommend CAF or manual focus. I also recommend release priority, otherwise the camera may not respond fast enough as it tries to figure out if it is in focus, missing the gate time of the trigger.

thanks for the tip! going to get the adaptor after work and see how it goes!