Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

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Sun Nov 07, 2010 10:15 am

Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:33 pm
Posts: 30

Please excuse me if this is not a new topic. My wife makes art glass which requires a 0 degree light to maximize iridescence: There is a wide angle of view, but the illumination angle is critical.

I want to position an X1600 with honeycomb attachment on a 3/8" steel rod, pointed directly down, between two light stands connected with with right angle chemistry ring-stand clamp attachments. The problem is that the supplied clamping fixture has a blind hole. I presume that this is to provide solid, slip-free attachment to the end of the light stand.

My idea would be to modify the clamping geometry to include a through hole on the now dead-end portion that would accomodate a 3/8" rod. This hole would be tapped to accept a short bolt that could be screwed into the hole to restore the dead-end geometry when normal attachment to a light stand is used.

So my question is, does Paul C. Buff, Inc. offer anything like this at present? If not, is there another solution that would allow X1600 attachment to a horizontal rod suspended between two light stands? (I already have the foot long arm extension, but that isn't enough range.) Or, for that matter, another way to get a 0 degree illumination angle over a 3 X 3 foot table?




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Sun Nov 07, 2010 11:17 am

Site Admin
Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:43 am
Posts: 5266

Try looking at a super clamp, or similar device. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3 ... ndard.html

Clamp this to the cross bar, and then attach the light to the stud. If you do not get this one, be sure to get one with a stud, or be sure to get a stud for it.




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Sun Nov 07, 2010 12:10 pm

Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:33 pm
Posts: 30

Technical Support wrote:
Try looking at a super clamp, or similar device. .


Thanks so much for the rapid response, Tech Support. :D Your suggestion should work, and I've ordered a clamp with stud. I am obviously a newbie at this, and very much appreciate this forum and your help and advice. I have quickly become a loyal Paul C. Buff customer.

You might want to consider modifying your clamping geometry, however; it might be relatively easy to incorporate the capability for through-rod mounting, obviating the need for the additional clamp.




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Mon Nov 08, 2010 3:11 pm

Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 1:54 pm
Posts: 66

I might not fully understand what you're trying to do here but why can't you just use a boom to get the light up and over the glass piece?




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Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:14 pm

Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:33 pm
Posts: 30

Photoflight wrote:
I might not fully understand what you're trying to do here but why can't you just use a boom to get the light up and over the glass piece?


That would work if I had one.




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Fri Nov 12, 2010 1:11 am

Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 1:54 pm
Posts: 66

Lots of ways to do it. All depends on how far you need to hold the head out and how heavy the head with modifier is. You need a stand of some kind from there you can start with a "C" stand knuckle and a length of copper pipe all the way up to a Redwing Boom. Chances are you'll find something that'll work for you somewhere in between:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Nt ... 4294204991




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Sat Nov 13, 2010 3:59 pm

Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2010 2:33 pm
Posts: 30

[quote
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Nt ... 4294204991[/quote]
Thanks! That's perfect.




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