Paul C. Buff, Inc. Technical Forum

Hi All,
Sorry for my silly question:
I would like to be instructed on how to set the E640 to Action mode. I have tried to set through the Cybercommander to Action but then I was lost with the camera since it was not synching at e.g. 1/1000 with the strobe. I have read here the Sync Speed and CyberSyncs
http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=66
but I am still confused.

I have a sport event to photograph and, in addition to the above, I would like to know if I can use a Speedlight flash mounted on the top of the camera and a pc cord with the CyberSynch but above the synch speed of the camera flash (I think not but please confirm).

Thanks

Action Mode on the Einstein affects the flash duration, and as a by product, color temperature. This mode shortens flash duration more than color mode in order to better freeze action at a given power setting. The cost of this decreased flash duration is a shift toward blue. The more reduction in power, the greater the shift.

In no case will the x-sync speed be changed. If you are looking to emulate high speed sync or FP sync, that would not not be possible with your equipment.

In an indoor, or very low ambient environment, using a reduced power (in color or action mode) while still at or below your x-sync speed will yield more power, and likely more action freezing than using a higher shutter speed (assuming HSS was possible).

If the word ACTION appears in red on the LCD screen of the light, then the light is correctly set to Action mode. It sounds like you have made the setting, bit are confused on the results. If you still need assistance with the setting, please let me know!

Thank you for your replay.
I am still confused though. I am going to shoot an event in a gym and as far as I understand form your answer I have just to set the lights to Action and keep the shutter speed below the maximum synch. Is that right? So if the maximum flash synch speed is 1/125 I would use 1/60 but how can I stop the action with 1/60 shutter speed?
I would appreciate very much if you can give mean example.
Again many thanks

First, blur is caused by an object moving in the frame, and being lit throughout a certain range of that motion. The longer light is hitting the moving object and reflecting onto a sensor (or film), the more blur. Also, the faster the object moves, the more range of motion it will have in a given amount of time.

So, if there is no light present, then your sensor cannot record light reflected off the moving object, as there is no light. Your shutter speed can be 1/1000s or 1000s, and no blur will record, as no light is being recorded.

The shutter's job is to control the amount of light reaching the sensor. However, in this case, we can control the amount of time light (flash) is introduced into the scene (flash duration), which will have the same effect. Short flash durations will allow light to appear for very short periods of time, up to 1/13,000 with Einstein. This means you are only allowing light to be recorded for 1/13,000s, which is faster than most shutters.

However, in the real world, you will probably not be working in a completely dark environment. So, you will need to find a shutter speed that is at or below your x-sync speed, but high enough to not record any ambient light. You can take a photo without the flash, and if you have a completely black frame, that will be suitable.

A practical example I like to use is a haunted house with strobe lights. Normally, when you see people move in regular light, it is smooth motion. But in a haunted house, when the strobe lights are flashing, people moving are frozen at different intervals, making the movement choppy. These frozen moments are akin to the freezing action of flash (though, the flash can freeze action even better).

So, for instance, if the HSS is 1/125 I will set close down the aperture e.g. f11 and will test for the amount of light that reaches the sensor. Assuming that I need a faster shutter speed to freeze the action I will try to close the aperture. If the test shot (I have not tried this yet) does not record any ambient light I will set the Einstein to Action for shorter flash durations. Am I right?

Many thanks for your help.

This mostly make sense, and seems you get the idea. However, I am not familiar with a digital camera that has a 1/125 x-sync speed. I could certainly be wrong, but most common settings are 1/160, 1/180, 1/200, or 1/250 (official specs. Some can sync faster, some slower than official specs).

Also, f/11 seems like a high value aperture for indoor work. This would require the lights to be set higher, and lengthen the flash duration and recycle time. Setting your camera to f/5.6 or f/4 will likely still render a black image. You may also still be able to increase your ISO to 200 or 400, which will lower the flash power as well, and still get a dark frame.

This will vary from venue to venue, high school venues will be better, since the ambient light is lower. Some colleges and pro venues will be lit for television and have higher light levels. Outdoors in daylight will be a different scenario.