cablsurfin wrote:
Kwitort: you can fire the 580 from your camera's hotshoe and trip the AB800 using its built-in slave trigger as long as the slave sensor on the back of the AB800 can "see" the 580's flash. In that case you wouldn't even need the transmitter or receiver. Alternatively, you could also set up the 580 off camera connected to the receiver using a Speedlight foot adapter (found here:
http://www.alienbees.com/parts.html) with the CST on the cameras hot shoe and still trip the AB800 using the built in slave triggering sensor. Just make sure you don't have any wire plugged into the AB's sync port as that will disable the sensor.
slonkat: For the loose connection to your 30D, I recommend that you slightly crimp the end of the pc cord to make it fit more snugly. As far as the 580ex II is concerned, it does indeed use a standard PC connection. No additional adaptor is needed.
I myself shoot with 2 x 580ex II's using a CST and 2 x CSRB's instead of my AB800's when the job doesn't call for a lot of power and I want to travel light.
Regards
a few addendums. If you use your 580 to trigger the Bees, be sure the speedlite is on manual mode, and as low power as possible (or if you wish to incorporate it into the set up, the appropriate power for good exposure). Keeping it in TTL mode will pretrigger the bees, and cause an under exposure, due to the preflash.
Yes the 580EXII (not the EX) does have a PC terminal under the rubber flap on the left side (looking at teh back of the light). I have tested this flash with our cords, and it is indeed typically loose. That being said, i have used a PC tip conditioner, and tested with our hot shoe adapters, two cameras we have here, and a Nikon SB800. All have a different fit, however the 580EXII is the loosest of them all. The cameras and HSA's are the snuggest. PC cords have an inherent adjustability to them, and the easist way to fix a loose PC cord is to crimp with a pair of pliers (as suggested).
TS